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Describing Missing Stone Positions

Wherever possible try to describe the position of the stone relative to the hallmark. In order for the position of the stone to be accurately described it is essential that all parties hold the ring the same way up. Firstly you will need an eye glass so that you can read the hallmark on the ring. Look at the hallmark through an eyeglass and hold the ring in front of you so that hallmark is the right way up with the head of the ring on top and facing towards you.

A sketch of the ring would be another option to indicate the location missing stone.

Maker-Mends will take a digital image of all proceeded work and this is kept on file.

NB. It is always a good idea whilst looking for the hallmark to examine the general condition of the settings and point out any observations to the customer that may have lead to the stone falling out such as missing or worn claw. Record the details on the repair slip.

hallmark held the correct way up The hallmark held the correct way up.
hallmark held upside down The hallmark the incorrect way up.
a single tier cluster ring When the ring is a round cluster the position of the missing stone is described thus: 1. Using the eyeglass look at the hallmark and determine the correct way up to hold the ring. 2. Whilst holding the ring in the correct direction describe the position of the missing stone using the hour positions on a clock face. This example shows a stone missing at 9 o'clock on first tier or outer row. The tiers are counted from the centre out. When there is no hallmark two descriptions should be stated to account for the ring being held in either direction e.g. this example would be either 3 or 9 o'clock.
a large cluster ring When the ring is a larger cluster the position of the missing stone is described thus: 1. Using the eyeglass look at the hallmark and determine the correct way up to hold the ring. 2. Whilst holding the ring in the correct direction describe the position of the missing stone by using the hour position on a clock face and describing which tier or level it is on. This example shows a stone missing in the middle row or first tier at 8-9 o'clock. When there is no hallmark two descriptions should be stated to account for the ring being held in either direction e.g. this example would be on the middle row or top tier at either 8-9 o'clock or 2-3 o'clock.
half eternity ring When the ring is an half-eternity the position of the missing stone is described thus: 1. Using the eyeglass look at the hallmark and determine the correct way up to hold the ring. 2. Whilst holding the ring in the correct direction, describe the position of the missing stone. This example shows a stone missing 2nd stone from the right. When there is no hallmark two descriptions should be stated to account for the ring being held in either direction e.g. this example would be either 2nd on the right or 2nd on the left.
shoulder set ring When the ring is shoulder set the position of the missing stone is described thus: 1. Using the eyeglass look at the hallmark and determine the correct way up to hold the ring. 2. Whilst holding the ring in the correct direction, describe the position of the missing stone. This example shows a stone missing 4th stone from the right. When there is no hallmark two descriptions should be stated to account for the ring being held in either direction e.g. this example would be either 2th on the right or 4th on the left.
3 row ring example When the ring has 2 or more rows of stones the position of the missing stone is described thus: 1. Using the eyeglass look at the hallmark and determine the correct way up to hold the ring. 2. Whilst holding the ring in the correct direction, describe the position of the missing stone. This example shows a stone missing from the top row, 3rd from left. When there is no hallmark two descriptions should be stated to account for the ring being held in either direction e.g. this example would be either stone missing from the top row, 3rd from left or bottom row third from the right.
example of a full eternity ring When stones go all away around a ring, you cannot determine the position of the stone therefore you cannot state which stone is being set or replaced. Because of this the stone cannot be guaranteed.